Portugal (Spring 2023) - Lisbon (Day 3)

This is the day we decided to take the train down to Belem. It is just a bit west of Lisbon. You could walk it but it would be a long walk and why would you when the public transit is so affordable?

Pasteis de Belem

Is this enough sugar?

A must stop. Belem is where Pastis de Natas were invented by the monks in the monastery one block over from this pastry shop. I found their version to be not as sweet and a little crispier than the Manteigaria ones I liked so much in Lisbon.

I ordered too many pastries. One of the reasons that happened was that everything was so cheap. This place could easily gouge tourists as they have a huge place that is filled constantly by tour buses but they choose not to and just charge a fair price. I love this country. I think one of the reasons they don’t jack up the prices is that locals still come here and they don’t want to screw the locals.

When we got here at 10 am, there was a line waiting for take out due to the tour bus crowd but we were able to find a table right away for a sit down breakfast. We saw a line for seating by the time we left.

Jerónimos Monastery

We did not go in here because there was a labor strike going on and thus some places were closed. Welcome to Europe!

Vasco de Gama (the explorer who found the ocean route to India from Europe) apparently is entombed here.

Padrão dos Descobrimentos (Monument of the Discoveries)

This impressive monument sits right on the Tagus River and has statues of royalty, explorers, and other prominent figures from their age of discovery.

Sitting just in front of the monument is a compass rose and map of Portugal’s discoveries that was given to them by South Africa.

Belem Tower

The fortress was the place where the explorers would sail from and return to on their journeys. Also closed due to strike!

At least you can get great views of it from the outside. Going in would I guess give you a higher view back down the river. next time perhaps.

Maritime Museum

Open! This place was not affected by the strike so we could tour this museum. It was actually fairly interesting. It details out the maritime history for Portugal and the many different wars that they were involved in during their empire.

They have a lot of models of ships and showing their evolution throughout the ages. The exhibits even extend to the modern times showing the Portuguese naval activities today.

A building on the side exhibits the royal barges

LX Factory

On the way back from Belem to Lisbon, there is a small hipster area called LX Factory that is home to a bunch of shops and bars and eateries. Built in old warehouse and business buildings, it attracts the younger crowd and of course, tourists.

It sits about halfway in between Lisbon and Belem. You can take a bus that drops you off almost at the entrance of the FX Factory.

*You can’t have a hipster neighborhood without an independent bookstore with a coffee shop*

Casa Portuguesa do Pastel de Bacalhau

This place needs a longer name. They have a shop in the main Baixa commercial district in Lisbon but also have a shop in the LX Factory. It is a nice place to take a break but is quite the juxtaposition from the rest of the LX Factory. The rest of the area here is independent focused small shops with a grunge rock feel. This place is big and opulent feeling.

They pretty much only do one thing here which is this cod and cheese pastry that you pair with sweet white port. This gets my thumbs up despite the touristy feel.

Back in Lisbon

We took another bus to get us back to the train station which is not too far from our hotel.

*Did I mention there are hills in Lisbon?*

*Next to our hotel and the Ascensor di Bica, walking up this set of stairs only gets you part of the way to the morning Pastis de Natas and coffee*
*I guess that’s why people will wait in line for the tram*

Rio Grande

Strongest left arm in Portugal

Located near our hotel and on the end of the Pink Street, we went to this place to take a little break as I saw they had the chorizo asado on the menu which I wanted to try. It’s actually pretty classy on the inside and the outside patio buts up against all the mayhem that happens on the Pink Street.

This is basically a pork sausage that gets flame grilled in front of you to get the crispy skin. What I didn’t realize at this place was that the waitress held the thing the entire time it was flame grilled. I felt kind of bad - she had to do like a really long bicep curl (not that she did but I would not have minded if she asked for a tip).

St. Patrick’s Day in Lisbon

*It was impossible to get anywhere near an Irish pub this day*

British Bar (oldest bar in Lisbon)

I always try to search out the oldest bar in a city. I didn’t realize it at the time when I was there the first time but this is the oldest bar in Lisbon (from the state of the plumbing in the men’s bathroom - I can believe it).

There is often some uncertainty and controversy when you ask about the oldest bar but a few people confirmed that this is the oldest. It says so on their website - if it’s on the internet, it must be true!

Since it was St. Patrick’s Day, you could have gotten the Carlsberg beer green. Hard pass.

This place is located in a busy area close to the waterfront and not far from the Pink Street. It definitely felt like a British pub when we went there the 2nd time when soccer was on. Apparently this is a Man U fanbase hangout. They also had F1 on tv as well.

Foxtrot

I had thought that this place was the oldest bar but the waiter corrected me and told me that it is the second oldest and that the British Bar is the oldest (to which I was like “Dude - I was just there!).

You have to ring a bell to have someone let you in and the space is surprisingly big inside. They even have a pool table room in the back.

It is located in a residential neighborhood west of the Barrio Alto district. It’s a bit uphill to get there from down by the water but fortunately there was a tram stop nearby that took us most of the way there.

The drinks were excellent and they keep throwing salty snacks at you. When I ordered a drink called Castelo de Sao Jorge - I pronounced “Jorge” the Spanish way and the waiter corrected me again - he said “You are in Portugal now - pronounce it like George.”

Really nice people here along with a great atmosphere. This was probably me favorite bar in Lisbon.

Pavilhão Chinês

This bar is located on the north side of the Barrio Alto. The neighborhood here is very vibrant with a lot of locals dining out on the street patios.

This was also one of the possible candidates for oldest bar in Lisbon. When I asked the bartender if this was the oldest bar in Lisbon using my Google translate, he shook his head for no and then he went on a 3 minute explanation of something in Portuguese of which I had no clue what he was saying. I just nodded my head and thanked him.

This place is known for having a lot of kitsch on the walls. Random stuff everywhere and the space is divided into several cozy rooms. The bar itself is located in the second section after you enter the front door.