Portugal (Spring 2023) - Lisbon (Day 2)
Outside the hotel window - yeah - alleys are tight here
Ascensor da Bica
The place we stayed was literally next door to this famous elevator tram car. There was a constant line to ride this thing and we would have to navigate through people to get back to the room. This photo was taken before it opened in the morning so it was still calm. It is a popular lift because it takes you up from the water front back up to the Barrio Alto neighborhood and saves you quite an uphill walk.
Manteigaria again - How else to start the day?
Also - ordering coffee in Lisbon:
The smaller cup is a “bica” which is an espresso
The bigger cup is an “abatanado” which is a slightly longer coffee - an espresso with a bit more water
I don’t put cream in my coffee so I never learned what those coffees are called
Walk to top of Santa Justa Lift
We walked from our morning coffees and pastries toward the top of the famous Santa Justa elevator. There are always people lined up to pay to ride to the top of the lift. We preferred just to walk there from where we were and enjoy the view from the top for free.
Bottom of Santa Justa Lift with the ever present big line of people waiting to ride it up
Camões Statue
This appears to be where every walking tour group meets
O Trevo
The next destination was to the Carmo Convent but since it was still not opening time, we decided to have some sandwiches. O Trevo was on a Bourdain episode so it is known for its bifana sandwiches. It’s working man’s food. Hearty and cheap, the pork slices sit in an ongoing stew until they slap it on some bread. There is usually some spicy mustard and chili sauce to put on them. We just stood and ate them at the counter like the locals do. The ones we ordered here also had some cheese on them.
Carmo Convent
This old monastery lost its roof in an earthquake in 1755 but what is left over is pretty visually stunning as it is just the arches that are still there to the open sky. They place old artifacts and exhibits along the walls as a museum display.
In the back there is an intact section of the old building and it has several more rooms housing more artifacts as well as some art that can be shielded from the element.
The other amusing thing is that a cat freely roams the grounds. It even has its own chair in the gift shop with its food in a bowl behind the counter.
Strolling down the streets in the Baixa commercial neighborhood
Looking down Rue Augusta towards the water
As Bifanas do Afonso
It was about lunch time and since we were on a bifana roll, we searched out another place famous for the sandwich. I asked for one with cheese but the guy said that traditionally they don’t put cheese on them and he recommended I get a plain one. Who am I to argue.
The space is tiny inside so we just ordered outside at the counter and ate standing outside.
I actually felt a little bad because they were busy and there were working blue collar types waiting to get their food during lunch hour. I made a note to myself to not get bifanas during a lunch hour so that the locals don’t have to fight through tourists while they are on the clock.
The other thing to note is that these places really are working class joints and are not open on Sundays.
Walking back to the water and back to the room
This is a store where all they sell is canned seafood
It’s a touristy spot but the cans look pretty
Waterfront
Pink Street
We stayed not far from the famous Pink Street which is a famous party zone lined with bars. These photos were during the day when it was still calm.
Every available open space you find in Lisbon will have one of these kiosks
There will be little tables set up so you can have an outside coffee or beer break pretty much everywhere you go around town
They can be pretty insistent that you stop on some streets. These pop up cylinders ensure that you comply.
We decided the next destination would be some coffee - the map didn’t show the elevation gain to get there.
Did I mention there are a lot of hills in Lisbon?
Random alley by where we were staying lined with bars and restaurants.
Dear Breakfast
After some uphill walking, we found this place to have some coffee. Everyone else there was having a late lunch. Very chic modern interior in an old building.
Bacalhau
After coffee we decided to get our own afternoon snack and went to this place just down the street from our hotel. It is a small family owned establishment where we finally tried some octopus salad. Popular dish in Portugal and it was excellent.
Red Frog Speakeasy
This is the place we tried to go to the previous night but didn’t have reservations. We figured we came all the way to Lisbon, might as well try to get in so we made reservations. Drinks were very good. Inventive, tasty and finely crafted. They also had some light snacks. A bit pricier than your normal Lisbon establishment but to be expected here.
Some parts of the online menu below:
Bonjardim
I had heard of the famous piri piri chicken here and Bonjardim was apparently the place to go. We sat outside in their patio area. It was busy but we didn’t have to wait long for a seat.
The chicken was very tasty and excellently roasted. However, what I learned is that piri piri chicken is just roast chicken and you put the piri piri sauce on it to make it spicy. I thought there was some special rub or marinade that made it piri piri but it is just the sauce on the side.
(This was also one of the few places that asked for a tip)
A Tabacaria
We decided to have one more drink to end the night and stopped in this place just down the street from our room. It was a fun little stop. The guy who runs this place doesn’t have a menu. He just asks you what you like in a drink and makes it up for you. He tells you what he puts in it as he makes it. He is a one man show here and puts and entertaining spin on your cocktail.