France (Winter 2023) - Lyon & Vienne (Day 4)
There were many options for a day trip from Lyon. Some easy day trips we considered were Grenoble or Geneva, but with the weather being so variable, we decided on Vienne to the south as the best bet to not get rained on for an outing based on the weather forecasts.
Vienne Train Station
We bought tickets of course but no one checked on either leg of the trip. We saw attendants walk around the train but no one asked to see our tickets.
Streets of Vienne
This was a very pleasant little town to stroll around in. I’m not sure what it is like in high season but it was very peaceful and quiet on that day.
Ancient Sites in Vienne
There’s lots of history here in Vienne as it had been an active capital city since the times before the Romans conquered the area. As a result, on top of the protected sites, you get the random Roman ruins just strewn around the city.
In the photos above of the gardens, you can see the ancient arches connected to a medieval building that now houses a kebab shop.
Roman Temple of Augustus and Livia
One of the few remaining Roman temples in France, it is actually a site they protect and you can’t just walk up to it. There is a gate surrounding it although we did see a school group inside doing a tour. It is said that being turned into a church after the fall of the Roman empire helped it to be preserved as opposed to being lost like many other structures.
Au Temple Du Pain - Vienne
Stopped in this wonderful bakery by the temple to grab some pastries for breakfast. Got some to go so we could go eat by the temple.
Le Toutatis - Vienne
We took our pastries and got coffees in the temple square. The bar owner said this was great because it was like we got the whole square to ourselves. Totally not like this in the high season.
Inside the bar it was filled with regulars having their coffee and reading the paper. It looked like a crowd of guys that gathered there every morning. I also noticed that a lot of the French start their day with white wine and cigarettes.
Cathédrale Saint-Maurice de Vienne
This cathedral named after a Roman Legionnaire sits right at the center of the city by the footbridge that crosses the Rhone River.
Across the Rhone River
There was not much to see on the west side of the river except perhaps a museum. The walk and the scenery were nice though. The river was flowing strong and high due to the recent rains.
Le Coin du Bœuf - Vienne
Needing lunch, we decided on this place which was not far from the train station. They had a full menu but everyone in the place pretty much got the prix fixe lunch because it was such a good deal. The prix fixe multi-course lunch pretty much cost the same as any one of the ala carte dishes.
I didn’t realize I ordered the dessert but I guess I did. This was so much food. There was even a course on top of this that I didn’t order - luckily because this was so much food. The main course was veal steak, a cheesy potato side, and some sort of carrot and celery mousse.
We split that plate of desserts but it took some extra effort to get it all down. They looked at me weird when I didn’t order coffee after the meal like I broke some sort of French eating protocol. Everyone does it here. Even for a late dinner, people will be downing espressos at 9 PM.
The lunch crowd here was a mix of locals and tourists.
Needing to walk some after lunch, we headed up the hill to check out the Roman Amphitheater. Having dutifully climbed the hill to get there, we find out that it is closed that day of the week (it was a Monday). Not as disappointing as driving across country to find out Wally World is closed but disappointing nonetheless.
Despite being an ancient structure, they still use the facility regularly for concerts and music festivals.
Le Duplex - Vienne
The train station had a coffee shop but it didn’t serve any alcohol so we decided to go across the street to this little bar to kill some time before boarding the train.
La Baignoire - Lyon
Back in Lyon for the night, we went out hunting for cocktail bars close to the hotel on the east side of the river. This speakeasy style bar was the first location. It was actually a bit hard to find because the door is not marked well. Luckily a girl returning to her apartment directed us to the proper door.
Their cocktail game is strong at this place. The bartenders gave us some recommendations on a cocktail bar in Amsterdam (our next stop) and told us that our next day trip if we ever come back should be to his hometown of Annecy which some consider to the be most beautiful place in France.
I guess translates to “the bathtub” so they give you these small rubber duckies when you leave. Customers also bring them back rubber ducks from all over the world when they return and they display them in back of the bar.
Le Bosquet - Lyon
Decently busy bar with a yuppie crowd kind of vibe. Had to go upstairs to find a seat. Only one bartender working and he was kind enough to schlep the drinks upstairs for us.
Sauvage - Lyon
This bar was a bit fancier and we got some rillettes for snacks. The place had a tropical theme with the straw lantern lights and the guys wearing Hawaiian shirts. They also had an upstairs seating area that seemed popular.
Meilleur Kebab de France - Lyon
The kebab game was strong in Lyon. This place looked like a newer addition. The name translates to “Best Kebab in France” and who am I to argue. They do a nice job here. I opted for the option without fries. This kebab had some eggplant in it. I don’t even like eggplant and it was still delicious. This was the perfect after drinking snack to end the evening.